Talking Trash: Indie Sleaze Walked So "Trashcore" Could Run

Indie sleaze resurged within the last few years, as '90s babies shed the confines of quiet luxury and traded in starched pleats and neutral color palettes for the unapologetic trends that coincided with their past Tumblr days. This era was defined by scrolling incessantly through photos of the early-age influencers posing in bold striped prints, neon hues and glitter everywhere — queue Kesha's Animal. This was a time of bold self-expression, before the pressures of perfectly curated Instagram feeds and intentionally styled "clean girl" looks loomed over our heads. As the decade shifted, fashion's repetitive cycle ensued, and when Gen-Z re-emerged from the idleness of the pandemic, we were yearning for unbridled expression once again. It wasn't long before indie-sleaze was back for good.

Downtown NYC fashion kids' favorite meme page, Nolita Dirtbag, identified this increase in unpolished ensembles, declaring that "Nature was healing," as it was evident in NYC and beyond that messy was more than mainstream again. As rockstar-girlfriend looks flooded the streets, fashion began to open up to the idea that unkempt looks could actually be quite chic. As many other aesthetics have paved the way for their successors — like coquetteish bows and ribbons evolving into a more specific and niche microtrend, balletcore — indie sleaze made way for an even more effortlessly stylish sister-aesthetic: "trashcore." It plays upon the same nostalgic elements as indie sleaze, except that instead of creating nostalgia-inspired looks, trashcore literally inserts nostalgia into every ensemble — i.e., Sinead Gorey using an old, broken iPod shuffle as a hair clip. The messy girl became idealistic; she doesn't take herself too seriously, she's always down for a good time, and by nature, her fashion choices are offbeat and adventurous.

The Lyst Index's recently released Q2 2025 report confirms this upheaval in unrefined looks, declaring that recent trends displayed a significant shift from "polished to personality." "This quarter saw fashion shoppers pivoting to high-impact, lower-cost accessories and footwear amid recession concerns. Beyond the viral Labubu craze, brand heat came from expressive, storytelling brands and standout shoes," the report started. If you never quite fit into the near impossible to attain standards of the clean girl, and you wanted to tap into the trashy-chic style but may not know where to start, you can look no further than some of the buzziest runways and labels. This haphazard essence has taken over prominent collections and the IG feeds of some of the biggest tastemakers out there.

So, what does it all mean? Upticks in upcycling across both major ateliers and independent brands have already proven that reinterpreting materials is the new norm, but trashcore takes those sentiments one step further. As Lyst alluded, this could also be a wider societal shift towards unserious approaches to fashion as we descend into recession.

Below, we explore the labels that are reinterpreting the meaning of disposability through a luxury context, with a focus on upcycling and DIY aesthetics.

Ashley Williams Trashed a Pair of Ballet Flats

Miu Miu re-released satin ballet flats in 2022, ahead of the viral craze of the silhouette which was then adopted by Alaïa, Khaite and more. Now, in 2025, ballet shoes are still all the rage. Ashley Williams, a London-based label, created their own version of the trend that merges a classic shape with a sense of quirkiness. The brand's viral "trash flat" shows off cigarette butts, receipts and discarded ribbons memorialized beneath a translucent shellac. It's an alternative spin on a dainty staple, and paired with a more poised look, these bring an eccentric flair.

AVAVAV Was Ahead of the Trashcore Movement

 

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For AVAVAV's Fall/Winter 2024 show, creative director Beate Karlsson presented her usual relaxed silhouettes, including oversized hoodies and ripped denim. Her typical satirical approach was highlighted through bold slogans like "Filthy Rich" or "Stay Rich," embroidered into baseball caps or temporarily tattooed onto the skin of models. But the show superceded a typical runway presentation, and instead acted as an interactive performance as the crowd began to throw trash at each model as they took to the catwalk. To uninformed eyes, this may have just read as another gimmick to drive clicks and conversation, but to Karlsson and those who have watched her craft evolve over the years, this was more than a stunt. It was a commentary on the industry as a whole, the internet trolling she's experienced throughout her career and a jab at the waste the industry creates. Karlsson was ahead of her time, because just a couple of seasons later, trash would be taken one step further as an actual design resource.

Balenciaga Turns Trash Into Accessories

@hypebae Balenciaga Chips Bags are back! Still crafted from calfskin and elevated with aged silver hardware, the new “flavors” include Cheese and Onion, Spicy Chilli and Salt and Vinegar. But we can’t help but wonder, now that Pierpaolo Piccioli is set to succeed Demna, could this playful yet provocative accessory be toast? #balenciaga #chipsbag #potatochipbag #fashiontok #demna ♬ original sound - Maame Adwoa

Balenciaga, under creative director Demna Gvasalia, was insurgent and unexpected. Each collection brought forth new ideas or never-been-done-before concepts, and the House's foray into the trashcore aesthetic was no different. For the atelier's Spring/Summer 2023 show the now-viral chip clutch debuted. It looks like a bag of Lay's chips that you would buy at the deli, except it's emblazoned with the word "Balenciaga" across the front of it. Just a couple of years back when this appeared in the collection, it spurred polarizing reactions. Now, as fashion continues to move in a direction where anything goes, the brand has released accompanying chip wallets as part of its Summer 2025 collection.

Instinct Brand Upcycles Found Objects

Instinct Brand is a New York-based independent brand started by Anna Molinari. She highlights sustainability through her designs, which often implement secondhand materials or more often, trash. Last year, she dressed Julia Fox for Peacock's "OMG Fashun" hosted by herself and Law Roach. Fox wore Molinari's imaginative designs — most notably, a chainmail dress fashioned from silver soda tabs and a striking corseted dress crafted out of recycled plastic. These pieces show the possibilities that can come from considering trash as an artistic resource, and Molinari continues to defy design standards with La Croix can belts, candy bar wrapper corsets and more.

MARGESHERWOOD Wants You to Show Off Your Trash

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MARGESHERWOOD is a contemporary Korean accessory brand by Sungeun Um and Soonyoung Kim. The label purveys bags with traditional shapes, but what makes each MARGESHERWOOD piece stand out are the modern, eye catching elements that the duo adds to each bag — like cute charms or multi-use pockets. The brand recently teased a limited-run handbag style that fully embodied the spirit of trashcore. The bag offering comes in the shape of a traditional baguette purse, but is accented by a clear "window" on its front side, which was styled in its NYC pop-up as a catch all, stuffed with crumpled candy wrappers, old gum, an iPod nano with a cracked screen and more.

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