It doesn't take much these days to conclude that so many tragedies are happening in the world—one only needs to open a newspaper or their social media app of choice to witness those factual brutalities. But for some, that reality isn't something you can flip or scroll past, as it lands so much closer to home. For those with Ukrainian roots, the headlines that have surrounded the country's ongoing war with Russia are a reality that's influenced every aspect of their lives for years.
It wasn't so long ago that Russia first annexed the Crimean peninsula back in 2014 as an aggressive territorial grab. But for the first time in nearly eighty years, we've seen the first-ever land war in Europe begin again. When Russia made its first air-raid invasion into Kyiv in February of 2022, that moment forever changed the lives of millions of lives in a way that no single headline could ever fully humanize or honor. However, as the Ukrainians have mounted their counter-offensive, we've been thinking about how imperative it is to continue to shine a light on what Ukrainian creatives are facing.
It's more pivotal than every to not only honor the plight, trauma, and inhumanities many Ukrainian citizens face now but to show their resounding strength in the face of such challenges. And while fashion can feel trite compared to all the other tragedies happening in the world, it can also be its own form of fortitude in the face of such darkness. Or at least, that's how many Ukranian creatives living through the daily horrors of the war and continuing to run businesses see it. For so many, Ukranian emerging fashion brands, it's not just important to keep creating clothing in the face of the war for pragmatic reasons—for them, it's vital.
In light of the continued conflict, we reached out to a group of eleven fashion designers to have them share what it's been like to continue creating amidst the war. We discussed their challenges, hopes, fears, and vision for their brands and what the international fashion community can do to support them right now. Their work is a reminder that art can act as a beacon of hope in the face of great uncertainty.
Obviously, Ukrainians are grappling with the continued war against aggressions by the Russians—how, if at all, has the war impacted your business? What challenges have you faced in your day-to-day operations that people might not be aware are impacted by war? AO: At the beginning of the war, I was forced to seek shelter and went to Paris. I had to leave all Anna October pieces in our studio in Kyiv, but over time, my team managed to transport them to Estonia. As a result, the work system has changed completely. Now we work between three countries—we produce everything in Ukraine, send orders from Estonia, and I work in France. The war accumulated all the strength my team and I had. We had no interruptions or delays and resumed our work just a week after the full-scale invasion started. The supply chain is the biggest issue because everything takes twice as long now; you need at least two weeks to deliver something to or from Ukraine because there's no air traffic. But we are coping with it and still aim to grow the business even in this environment. We need to work in the context of the fashion calendar, and any of our difficult circumstances can't affect the fact that we must continue to produce everything on time. And so we do it. Fashion can feel so trite compared to all the other tragedies happening in the world, but for you, why do you feel it's been imperative to keep creating clothing in the face of the war? What, if any, has the creative process given you during this time? AO: As Vita Sackville-West said, "Small pleasures must correct great tragedies, therefore of gardens in the midst of war, I bold tell." My goal is to be useful and create something to improve their lives. I've been doing this throughout my collections, which is how I carry out my mission. Broadcasting my aesthetic vision seems like a meditation. If I have the chance to create, if I have the strength to do it under any circumstances, if I'm supported by my team, friends, and people worldwide, then I have to do it. Creating is how I feel useful. Altogether, I love making clothes; this is my most natural state. Being creative in the face of war gives me strength and hope. How can the international fashion community continue to support Ukrainian creatives through this time? AO: I wish the fashion community would pay more attention to the war in Ukraine and people who were forced to leave their homes and provide more collaborative support, as they would if this happened to their neighbor. The war cannot just stop unless we win it. We are not waiting; we are fighting and need continuous government and industry support. The horror of war my country and people are facing is beyond scary, and I don't want other countries and people to go through it. I know humanity has the power to stop this war; people have the power to demand it. So please do it in any possible way.
Which part of Ukraine are you originally from? How do you feel your heritage has informed how you approach style? How does it influence your collections on the whole? ER: Born in Kharkov, my style undoubtedly matured in Kyiv. My purpose revolves around upholding femininity and elegance channeled through minimalist and refined designs. Capturing a sense of individuality and feminine empowerment, rooted in the diverse preferences of women irrespective of age or lifestyle, serves as my guiding principle. Obviously, Ukrainians are grappling with the continued war against aggressions by the Russians—how, if at all, has the war impacted your business? What challenges have you faced in your day-to-day operations that people might not be aware are impacted by war? ER: The most significant change is that I no longer have the opportunity to work with my team daily. I now operate predominantly online. We have overhauled our work system entirely, primarily focusing on conducting sales through digital platforms. While this new approach is different, it has brought about unique benefits. We have adapted and thrived in this new reality, embracing innovative ways of working. Being that it is such a tumultuous time, how, if at all, are you adapting the business for the future? What are your hopes for the future, in general? EF: Currently, we're proactively exploring new markets, engaging in online sales, and collaborating with influencers. Sharing my creative vision and beauty ideals with the world brings me immense satisfaction and keeps me going. Simultaneously, I'm a staunch advocate of sustainable living and integrate ecological principles into our practices. We embrace 100% natural eucalyptus fabric, offering breathable, absorbent, lightweight, and soft garments. Our commitment to sustainability extends to not using real fur, and we frequently address ecological concerns within our collections. For instance, our recent collection focused on water—a symbol of renewal, movement, and life source. This perspective also sheds light on ocean pollution and the environmental risks certain lifestyles pose. We're of the mindset that fashion can shape a better future.
Last fall, you debuted your collection in Paris for the first time after eleven years of being at New York Fashion Week—what was that experience like for you? And what was the inspiration behind your F/W 23 collection? SB: It was extraordinary. I wanted to do a presentation in Paris because I wanted an intimate format to show the concept of the collection, and the pieces themselves needed stillness to be shown. The concept was "birds of hope," which was visibly embodied through jewelry and bags in the shapes of eggs. And the collection itself was only black and white to represent the radical question of life and death. White always symbolizes the revival of life and new beginnings, and the color has prevailed in each Bevza collection. So, I wanted to show this collection in the form of stillness, a kind of silence, to make you think of these questions. We also did a campaign shoot and video outside Paris with the photographer Masha Cairo, videographer Vlad Dubovskiy, and art director Anton Belinskiy. We wanted it to represent the cycles of life and women moving through them. We showed that through archetypes of youth and the mother and her maturity. We showed that through a woman with wings who finds freedom from being responsible for decisions and her choices. We showed all this beauty and complexity of life, which I am so grateful for. Fashion can feel so trite compared to all the other tragedies happening in the world, but for you, why do you feel it's been imperative to keep creating clothing in the face of the war? What, if any, has the creative process given you during this time? SB: For me, the creating process is the feeling that I continue to live, to create something that has its own life. This is part of the drive for me and my team. I don't just create clothes; I create senses. I'm trying to use my voice to show the world there's something good and beautiful about Ukranians. For me, as the creative director, this is one of the main missions and responsibilities of Beveza now. Obviously, Ukrainians are grappling with the continued war against aggressions by the Russians—how, if at all, has the war impacted your business? What challenges have you faced in your day-to-day operations that people might not be aware are impacted by war? SB: We are still facing everyday challenges. While answering this interview from my office in Kyiv, there was another raid alert; it happens almost every day in Ukraine. We're checking telegram channels to understand from where the rockets or drones are flying—this has been part of our life since February 2022. The war has changed the lives of all Ukrainians. Of course, it has hit businesses, as well. In the first months of the war, we were completely blocked from making deliveries, but luckily, we had support from buyers from all over the world who wrote to us that they would wait for the orders. They didn't cancel. Once we restarted our business, we tried to relocate the production to different countries, but many payment systems to and from Ukraine were blocked. Even importing fabrics into Ukraine has been a challenge. But for now, Ukrainians, our clothing producers, and our partners have shown huge resilience. For me, it's essential to continue to produce in Ukraine to show quality to the world. And particularly for our artisan partners, the work is an emotional savior because that means that they continue life, that they're not sitting still and being scared. Our two jewelry partners in Ukraine make our iconic spikelet pieces, and they recently faced attacks. One of their offices was utterly destroyed, so all patterns, sketches, and molds had to be restarted from scratch. And most of the men producing alot of our previous collections have been taken away to the army, so now primarily women are the artisans creating everything you buy from Ukraine.
The Ukrainian first lady Olena Zelensky wore a pair of your ballet flats in her American Vogue cover image last year. That must have been a huge moment for you. What did it mean for you to see your shoes representing Ukraine in such a high-profile shoot? SMM: My husband and I were driving in the car when I spotted the cover; we both screamed with joy simultaneously. It was shocking and a major surprise! No one from our team expected such news. In Ukraine, this cover had a significant impact and ignited public discussions. Many didn't perceive Olena Zelenska as feminine. But what more natural stance could there be for a strong-willed woman, the spouse of the country's president, during a full-scale war? In my opinion, everything was very authentic and powerful. By the way, people still come to us and ask to try on ballet flats like the ones on the Vogue cover. Obviously, Ukrainians are grappling with the continued war against aggressions by the Russians—how, if at all, has the war impacted your business? What challenges have you faced in your day-to-day operations that people might not be aware are impacted by war? SMM: Even before the full-scale invasion began, we discussed with the team what to do in case of war—everyone believed we might stop, possibly forever. After February 23, 2022, we did stop for a bit. But two weeks later, we organized a charity sale of all the items in stock with a 50% discount, and the proceeds were donated to charitable funds. Unexpectedly, we sold everything within a few days, which was surprising because who needs shoes and bags when life has reached a standstill? Yet, Ukrainian women were buying red shoes, a symbol of their celebration of victory—that's the kind of spirit Ukrainian women possess. Back then, it was incredibly emotionally challenging for everyone; the prevailing thought was that your life had been taken away. And this feeling was universal throughout the country. But now, we have adapted to shelling, explosions, and alarms. Even as I write responses to these questions, in the first hour of the night, an alarm echoes in Kyiv: there's a threat of ballistic missiles. I move my child to the bathroom floor, onto a special mattress for such situations, and I carry on. And, of course, the business was most affected by the shelling of the energy infrastructure and the lack of electricity. It's pretty simple: no power means no work. Electricity was often only available for a few hours at night. Each district, city, street, or house had its unique schedule of outages; thus, aligning production processes sequentially was exceedingly difficult. Fashion can feel so trite compared to all the other tragedies happening in the world, but for you, why do you feel it's been imperative to keep creating clothing in the face of the war? What, if any, has the creative process given you during this time? SMM: First and foremost, by continuing, we provide people with incredibly essential jobs in times of uncertainty—this is a clear source of stability. You can hold onto it and know that tomorrow, for instance, everything here will remain unchanged. During times of war, many things lose their meaning for a person. Among them, many individuals question the purpose of their own existence when so many tragedies are happening every day. Work gives a sense of purpose; it involves you. It could be fashion or any other activity. But as long as you know you're needed, you hold on. From this period, we created our most complex collection when, seemingly, everything should have come to a halt. We made our most beautiful collection because the best time for it is right now—this is precisely what our summer collection, Golden Times, is all about.
Obviously, Ukrainians are grappling with the continued war against aggressions by the Russians—how, if at all, has the war impacted your business? What challenges have you faced in your day-to-day operations that people might not be aware are impacted by war? MF: When the war started, I thought it was all over. I had a young baby, and I was lucky enough to move my family over to Europe. But many of my team didn’t leave; they wanted to return to work as soon as possible and prove that we could keep our country alive. There have been huge obstacles along the way: power outages, our spaces being bombed, and attempting to ship wholesale and customer orders when borders are closed. But Ukrainians are resilient; we always find a way around the issues. We continue to produce the entire collection out of our Lviv-based atelier. I’m back and forth now between Europe and the Lviv studio, working closely with the team to create collections we’re proud of. Somehow, through all of this, the business continues to grow, and people continue to get behind what we’re doing. Fashion can feel so trite compared to all the other tragedies happening in the world, but for you, why do you feel it’s been imperative to keep creating clothing in the face of the war? What, if any, has the creative process given you during this time? MF: Creating is the opposite of destroying. Ukrainians love to create, and we are good at nourishing their homes, plants, projects, kids—basically anything. I keep doing what I do best, and it gives me life. When I’m alive, why not give it all? If not now, when? How can the international fashion community continue to support Ukrainian creatives through this time? MF: Russia has tried to destroy our lives, but luckily, they don’t have control over that. It has been a very tough ride, and it continues to be for our country. There are regular rocket and drone attacks on our cities. I don’t think it’s easy to comprehend, even for us living in this nightmare, because it’s actually crazy. But I think the best way the world can show support is by not only telling Ukranian stories and supporting small businesses but by not giving a platform to Russians. Ukrainians deserve that respect.
Fashion can feel so trite compared to all the other tragedies happening in the world, but for you, why do you feel it's been imperative to keep creating clothing in the face of the war? What, if any, has the creative process given you during this time? VU: It was extremely challenging during the first months of the invasion as I literally thought I could never create something again; the pressure and anxiety were too high. However, it was all about not giving up on my dreams and what I had already achieved. Creating now is another kind of motivation I have never experienced—firstly, I have an enormous desire to live and encourage others to work and build. I believe fashion is not only about clothing in its ordinary sense—it always reflects what is happening in society. It's an influential power in raising attention to the world's changes, and it can significantly help if it is targeted at the right things. Obviously, Ukrainians are grappling with the continued war against aggressions by the Russians—how, if at all, has the war impacted your business? What challenges have you faced in your day-to-day operations that people might not be aware are impacted by war? VU: The war has tremendously impacted the business. Sometimes, I look back, and it's beyond my mind how we managed to maintain all the processes and even evolve the brand since the invasion started. There have been many challenges I can name: working under air raid sirens, constant anxiety about your physical well-being, power outages during the autumn-winter seasons when all your production depends on electricity, inability to receive your supply materials in time due to logistic delays, and so many more. But no matter what, I can't betray my dream and the people working with me. I feel responsible for my employees and everyone involved in the brand. I admire Ukrainian entrepreneurs working in these challenging times. Building the businesses now is an excellent example of our fortitude, and it provides solid mutual support for each other during this time. How can the international fashion community continue to support Ukrainian creatives through this time? VU: Globally, raising more conversations about Ukraine is essential, but it can't end with discussing how the community can help the creatives. It's about urging the industry to take action by supporting and donating. That help could come in the form of grants for young creatives and students, especially those who fled their homes. But it could also provide specialists to help refugees find well-paid jobs in the countries where they are trying to start a new life. It also can come in the form of supporting Ukrainian businesses by offering more simplified terms of cooperation. And then, on a more practical level and specifically for the shoppers, I would ask for more patience and compassion regarding production and logistics as we continue in the face of challenging circumstances.
Being that tailoring is such a central part of all of your collections, what importance does the team place on championing Ukrainian tailors? And how have you been able to continue to support the artisan community through your work? SF: Our tailoring clothing is complex, and no production can be outsourced while keeping the same quality. Thus, we created our production process, which is led by a community of Ukrainian professionals who produce complex blazers one by one, ensuring that only one artisan is responsible for the full chain of work. We set it up this way so that we help develop the knowledge and experience for our employees, and they, in turn, share it with others. For us, it’s so important for our work to champion tailoring and combining both masculine and feminine elements, so we’ve ensured our team has experience in both men's and women's suits. As an example, there are many oversized suits on the market, where the shoulders are slightly loose, but we worked with our tailors to implement a technique inspired by men’s suits from the ‘90s that allowed the fit of our blazer to be more fitted. It’s this collaboration that allows our pieces to shine. Obviously, Ukrainians are grappling with the continued war against aggressions by the Russians—how, if at all, has the war impacted your business? What challenges have you faced in your day-to-day operations that people might not be aware are impacted by war? SF: That could be a whole separate story. We stopped all activities for several months when the full-scale war started, and all the team members moved to their hometowns, where it was safer for them. After some time, we restarted remotely by sending pieces by post. It must be mentioned that it was mainly the team’s request to restart, as it helped them to distract from constant bad news. There were attacks on electrical infrastructure; we didn’t have electricity during the winter, and we hardly could produce anything, just separate pieces on demand. But despite how much the fashion industry has impacted her, we are fighting to continue and even develop further. Looking at what our army is doing by protecting us, we have no right to stop. Fashion can feel so trite compared to all the other tragedies happening in the world, but for you, why do you feel it’s been imperative to keep creating clothing in the face of the war? What, if any, has the creative process given you during this time? SF: Not everyone can go to fight in the war. But we feel that everyone has to contribute: pay taxes, support employees, help them remain safe and have the means to live, and donate, donate. But behind the physical needs are also psychological needs, both of the team and the clients. Creativity for the team and nice clothes for clients make them feel more “normal,” and that means that we contribute to the mental health of our Ukranian community. Moreover, we feel that creativity is even stronger during the war; we feel the power to create stronger pieces, and we see that those styles are well-accepted by customers around the world.
Obviously, Ukrainians are grappling with the continued war against aggressions by the Russians—how, if at all, has the war impacted your business? What challenges have you faced in your day-to-day operations that people might not be aware are impacted by war? IV: The Ukrainian army right now is defending everyone from the biggest terrorist in the world, and we're very thankful to everyone abroad for their support. Without it, we'd never be able to stand so strong for such a long time. And it's not just about Ukraine, but also about our company in particular, too. We received massive support from the fashion community, who helped us to continue showcasing the brand on all international platforms and, therefore, continue our work. Despite that, we're still facing the difficulties any other non-Ukrainian brand in the world doesn't face: from the absence of air connections that transform into logistics difficulties up to basic fear of missile attacks. We survived the most brutal winter in our lives with tremendous electricity issues, and the following winter will likely be the same for us, too. But we've learned to fight willingly; nothing can stop us from creating and doing what we do best. This is our reality now, and we're hardened by it. It's vital for us to continue our production here, build our company here in Kyiv, and support our country as much as we can. Fashion can feel so trite compared to all the other tragedies happening in the world, but for you, why do you feel it's been imperative to keep creating clothing in the face of the war? What, if any, has the creative process given you during this time? IV: I never thought fashion was a trivial thing, but on the contrary, I feel it's a powerful industry that brings people together and has a big educational impact on many who can pass it on. It covers art, cinematography, and society as well. That's why it's imperative for us to show that we, as a fashion brand, didn't stop during the war. At first, our primary focus was on helping out and supporting volunteer initiatives and creating our own charity project, FrolovHeart. Now, we're doing it in parallel with our main line of work and seasonal collections and drops. But we made sure the war didn't affect our brand's identity. What really matters is highlighting our strength—no matter the war, we keep doing what we're best at: corsetry pieces, beautiful evening outfits, and custom looks. That's where our real power lies. Even during the war, we can still show our best work and are very proud of it. How can the international fashion community continue to support Ukrainian creatives through this time? IV: I want to thank everyone worldwide for supporting us—for all the big moves and small acts of kindness. You are why we're holding the fort against the Russian army. As Ukrainians, we're giving it all; hopefully, we'll soon celebrate this win together. So, I'm just going to ask: keep the conversation about Ukraine ongoing, support our talents, and purchase Ukrainian products, brands, and art. It's not just about our economy; it's about our survival. The war isn't over yet, and we need to keep feeling the world standing strong beside us.
Obviously, Ukrainians are grappling with the continued war against aggressions by the Russians—how, if at all, has the war impacted your business? What challenges have you faced in your day-to-day operations that people might not be aware are impacted by war? IS: The Russian invasion has been a surprise for me, as for anyone else. The war has led to a number of challenges, such as undermined logistics, power outages, and constant missile attacks, putting pressure on the production process and supply. Still, we have managed to adapt, and now our production remains active even during power outages as we have our own reserve power supply. In addition, we have established new transportation routes that ensure the fast delivery of goods, even under uncertainty. Fashion can feel so trite compared to all the other tragedies happening in the world, but for you, why do you feel it's been imperative to keep creating clothing in the face of the war? What, if any, has the creative process given you during this time? IS: Fashion is the same business as many other industries. My business is important for my country as I employ many people, pay taxes, and promote Ukraine. So, when creating new dresses, I feel I do it to support my country in a way I can. In addition, I believe it's important to remain a role model for female entrepreneurs in Ukraine who are seeking an opportunity to build their careers amid such uncertainty. . How can the international fashion community continue to support Ukrainian creatives through this time? . IS: Close ties with Russia if you want to be supportive. Fashion brands and beauty conglomerates are paying an enormous amount of taxes to the Russian government—stop fueling their war machine. It's that simple.
Are you both originally from Kyiv? How do you feel your heritage has informed how you approach style? How does it influence your collections on the whole? KZ: I was born and raised in Kyiv, with a short-term experience of living in Pyongyang, North Korea, in my childhood. I believe my origin and my roots are a huge source of inspiration and an essential part of my identity. I’m proud to be a Ukrainian. Ukrainians are truly talented, hardworking, and brave artists with strong spirits, a tender love for nature, and a deep connection to their roots. Our outstanding cultural heritage makes our nation authentic and clearly manifested. And undoubtedly, I feel it inside, and this is the thing that has a significant effect on my worldview. AV: I spent my childhood in Crimea, which definitely influenced me: the seaside, beautiful landscapes, and warm-hearted Ukrainian people imprinted in my heart. Paying tribute to our ancestors, we use 100% linen fabrics, which formed the basis of the closing of Ukrainians during the centuries. The cut details for our core styles, such as Linen Loungewear Dresses and Romantica Linen Dresses, are also borrowed from Ukrainian bottom dresses. . Obviously, Ukrainians are grappling with the continued war against aggressions by the Russians—how, if at all, has the war impacted your business? What challenges have you faced in your day-to-day operations that people might not be aware are impacted by war? AV: We had to rebuild our business processes and supply chain. Before the war, our headquarters were in Kyiv; all our seamstresses and the whole production were there. We had to temporarily relocate the production for the first year of the war and take care of the employees and their families. Fortunately, we have restored our Kyiv production, and our craftswomen continue creating beautiful garments there. And now, our Sleeper team is scattered all over the world. We coped with all the difficulties and expanded even more. We are constantly giving back to our community and supporting the Ukrainian economy and those needing help. That’s why we’ve launched the Sleeper Foundation, a charitable fund that aims to help civilians cope with the consequences of the war. An essential part of the fund’s activity is devoted to the Red Seam project—we produce pajamas for Ukrainian military hospitals. We provide our heroic defenders with the comfort and care they deserve. Fashion can feel so trite compared to all the other tragedies happening in the world, but for you, why do you feel it’s been imperative to keep creating clothing in the face of the war? KZ: It’s so important to keep doing the usual things during the war. It’s how people deal with the stress and defeat their trauma. Our Ukrainian women want to be beautiful, so they make manicures in the bomb shelters during the air raid alert. They want to dress up, it’s fantastic. We can’t let them down. AV: Moreover, fashion is one of the industries the Ukrainian economy stands on. We create workplaces, we pay salaries and taxes, and it’s our duty to keep going.
