Torishéju SS26 Takes on the Uniform for “Uncanny” Times

There’s no question about it: Torishéju Dumi is the moment. After winning LVMH’s prestigious Savoir-Faire prize and launching at Dover Street Market Paris-based brand development program, the British-Nigerian-Brazilian designer has become a favourite for fashion insiders and stars like Zendaya and Kendall Jenner. For her Spring/Summer 2026 show, Dumi tapped the legendary Naomi Campbell to open for the second time, setting the stage for a collection that masterfully captures the chaos of our current times.

Titled "DŪRER," the collection is a deep dive into the concept of the uniform. "It’s all about this obscure uniform and really looking at uniform in a way where you're turning it on its head," the designer told Hypebae post-show. Inspired by the "uncanny feeling" of life today, she deconstructs familiar silhouettes and rebuilds them with a beautiful strangeness. "Things happen and you almost you have to tilt your head a bit and think, 'Oh, okay.' And that's what I wanted these clothes to represent," she offered.

The show notes called it a "visual glitch in the matrix of sartorial logic," a perfect description for the artfully twisted sleeves, flipped collars and perforated pieces on the runway.

This intellectual approach is grounded in Dumi’s self-professed "obsession with pattern cutting." She told Hypebae it’s about "deconstructing it and putting it back together in a way that makes sense for myself."

This mastery was evident in the collaboration with Kangol, which produced dramatic, sculptural hats inspired by images of Princess Diana. Dumi wanted "the hat to have its own life… a hat that you would wear out when you go to a ball or an extravagant affair."

Elsewhere, wooden beads, a nod to Dumi’s fascination with the Northern Renaissance, explored the idea of how "something so natural [is] becoming so hollow" in our digital age. The result is a collection that is as intelligent as it is desirable, cementing Torishéju as a label that doesn’t just dress us, but makes us think, too.

Take a look at the collection above and catch up on more from Paris Fashion Week here.

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