Marc Jacobs’ Latest Show Had It All: Dolls, Bows, Heels and a Major New Bag

Leave it to Marc Jacobs to make the industry stop and stare, even if only for five minutes. While everyone else is whispering about "quiet luxury," Jacobs took over the New York Public Library to scream "blissful artifice" with his latest collection. In a show that was over before most guests could post their first Instagram Story, he made one thing crystal clear: minimalism is decidedly not on the mood board.

The collection was a masterclass in controlled chaos, continuing his obsession with exaggerated, doll-like proportions. But if last season’s dolls were Polly Pockets, AW25's dolls were from a beautiful, haunted toy chest, topped off with giant bows, of course. The show’s first look set the tone: a massive lilac lace blouse tucked into even more massive cargo pants, proving that Jacobs’ world has no room for subtlety. He played with perception everywhere—from white denim given a squared-off, boxy volume to evening gowns adorned with giant, flat trompe l'oeil bows that looked like 2D stickers.

It was the styling, however, that truly took the looks into another dimension altogether. Models navigated the marble floors on what can only really be described as stilts, their platform shoes so surreal they made a pair of Kiki boots look like a sensible option. The silhouette – for shoes and garments alike – was all about distortion, with padded backsides, heart-shaped puff sleeves, and tops made from collaged bras dripping in pearls.

While the runway served up this fashion fantasy, Jacobs simultaneously debuted his next It-bag, ‘The Cristina,’ a scrunched U-shaped purse, on front-row attendees. It was a slick reminder that even in his most otherworldly explorations, Jacobs remains the ultimate architect of desire. He, for one, is still crafting a beautiful, bonkers dream we all want to live in.

Browse the gallery at the top of this page to get a closer look at the collection itself, or the gallery above for a look backstage.

In other fashion news, have you heard about the Spice Girls football kit yet? Yes, really.

Click here to view full gallery at Hypebae